Mussels In White Wine Sauce Recipes

Clams every way, except fried or steamed

Jasper White, owner of Summer Shack restaurants and the Fish Market at Derby Street Shoppes in Hingham, said he thinks few foods taste better than steamers and fried clams. Yet, that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of other wonderful ways to eat clams.

“Soft shell clams are one of nature’s perfect foods, yet they’re kind of two dimensional,” said White, who recently opened a new restaurant in Dedham.

In contrast, hard shell clams – little necks, cherrystones and quahogs – are versatile.

“Clams are assertive,” he said. “They can take a lot stronger flavor than an oyster or a mussel. You can use your imagination.”

That translates into clam seviche and clams that flavor seafood or pork stew. In his Portuguese Pork Stew with Clams and Garlic Sauce, White marinates pork shoulder in chile-garlic paste, braises it in wine with garlic, onions and tomatoes and then adds little neck clams.

“The combination of clams with stewed pork is outstanding,” White said. “The clams add a wonderful briny and herbaceous flavor to the sauce.”

A more traditional, and very popular, clam dish is clams casino. Dolphin Seafood in Natick makes these baked stuffed clams with cherrystones topped with sauteed red and green peppers, sherry wine, a crumb topping of Ritz crackers and garlic butter, and, bacon, the defining ingredient.

“We think it’s the best way to accentuate the clams’ flavor,” said manager Ted Giannacopoulos. “It’s rich, but not overwhelming.”

White twists the tradition by topping his clams with corn bread and Portuguese chorizo sausage. He also tweaks the simplicity of steamed clams by grilling hard shell clams and topping them with a sauce of garlic, butter, cream and wine. It’s a simple approach – the clams are placed directly on the grill and removed immediately once they pop open after about eight minutes.

“There is a slight difference in taste from when they’re steamed,” he said. “When you steam them, they get a little watered down, but grilling them is pure clam.”

To encourage creative approaches to clams, Sea Watch International, a producer of processed clams, last spring hosted its Fourth Creative Clam Challenge.

“We’ve always promoted clam chowder and fried clams, but now we’re trying to encourage different ways of using clams,” said Guy Simmons, vice president for marketing and product development for Sea Watch International.

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